It will probably come as no surprise that I am a bit of an anime fan. A few years back I watched Paprika. It was an intense piece in true japanese animated fashion. Chris Nolan admitted it as part of his inspiration for the movie Inception. Recently, I’ve been really enjoying the soundtrack and thought I’d post one of the songs here.
‘The girl in Byakkoya’ by Susumu Hirasawa.

There are a number of reasons why I love Japanese film so much. To begin with there are usually so many layers, some overt and some so subtle that unless you have a background or history with japanese culture you’d never even notice them they are so understated. I’m thinking of a lot of the references in My Neighbor Totoro and Spirited Away that are subtle references to Shintoism and the spiritual world.  I had a disagreement years ago with a professor of mine on the use of melancholy in Japanese film and writing. The term that I love to describe this, mono no aware, has a number of translations but the one I prefer is ‘The sadness of being human’. He held that this is seen less in modern japanese writing and film but I completely disagree… It’s seen everywhere from Ishiguro and Murakami to even some of Beat Takeshi’s films. Though the Japanese by no means have the corner on the melancholy market i’ve always been fascinated by the way it seems to be so much a part of the culture…

In other news, I’m stopping over to visit friends and family in Seattle before i return to DC to continue the job search. I should probably put together a post dedicated to job hunting tips, tricks, and experiences to share… I’ve certainly gotten enough of them over the past few months!

Just Breathe – Pearl Jam

Yes I understand that every life must end, aw huh,.. 
As we sit alone, I know someday we must go, aw huh,.. 
I’m a lucky man to count on both hands 
The ones I love…

Some folks just have one, 
Others they got none, aw huh,.. 

Stay with me,.. 
Let’s just breathe. 

Practiced are my sins, 
Never gonna let me win, aw huh,.. 
Under everything, just another human being, aw huh,.. 
Yeh, I don’t wanna hurt, there’s so much in this world 
To make me bleed. 

Stay with me,.. 
You’re all I see. 

This is the first post / update I’ve made since leaving Cairo and returning home. It’s a strange feeling. Not quite home. A transition place. Waiting for the next step or phase to reveal itself. I’m catching up with friends, scouring for jobs, and spending a lot of time thinking over the last few years. It’s all still processing.

“If people bring so much courage to this world the world has to kill them to break them, so of course it kills them. The world breaks every one and afterward many are strong at the broken places. But those that will not break it kills. It kills the very good, and the very gentle, and the very brave impartially. If you are none of these you can be sure it will kill you too, but there will be no special hurry.”

- Ernest Hemingway

I had this Hemingway quote in mind while reading the headlines earlier from North Africa. My heart and thoughts continue to go out to all those still struggling to overthrow tyrants and dictators. To those hoping for a better future. And to those trying to build one.

Below are some pictures from our trip out to Alexandria. From Cairo, it’s only a few hour train ride. Quite pleasant compared to some of the other travel options I’ve tried over the last few years (Yes, India. I’m thinking of you).

After a few long hard months in Cairo, a trip to the ocean was amazing. The smell of salt in the air, the city itself had a more cosmopolitan feel (yes, this is code for western, i’ll admit it). The seafood was amazing. At one point K, myself, and some friends just sat on the wave breakers and watched the ocean. Cathartic fails to encompass everything I was experiencing.

Regrettably, some friends went out there after the recent revolution. Many of the restaurants and stores had been looted and destroyed, the police presence was almost nonexistent, and the harassment was staggering.

I think that, more than anything, describes the impression I leave Egypt with. It truly is a mixed bag. the high’s with the low’s. The lovely moments and experiences running alongside the anger and aggressiveness necessary to battle daily harassment and assaults. And I’m not a woman.

Many people continue to argue that the harassment is blown out of proportion or doesn’t really occur. Many that I have heard don’t want that to be the image of Egypt the rest of the world sees. That’s understandable. So do something about it.  A recent report I came across states over 93% of foreign women in Egypt experience harassment and assault. If that’s not the Egypt you want… if that’s not the Middle East / North Africa you want…

Alexandria pictures

Interrupting the update process…

I recently submitted an article I wrote to a former employer for posting on their internal website. The article was about my experiences during the recent Egyptian revolution. Since the website is inaccessible to the public i’m going to re-post it here.

————————————-

I had spent the last 15 minutes hiding out in an abandoned storefront with two bouquets full of roses in my arms listening to the chants fade away in the distance. I blinked back tears as the teargas began to dissipate, and it occurred to me that this is by far the most surreal experience I’ve had in my life.

It was now Valentine’s Day in Cairo and though the revolution had been officially over for some time following President Mubarek’s departure from office, sporadic protests and crackdowns were still taking place in the city. One such demonstration had caught me by surprise while I tried to bring flowers to two friends of mine at their apartment near Tahrir Square.

I’ve been studying for my Masters degree for almost two years here in Egypt. Prior to the revolution occurring, I don’t think anyone– international relations professional or layperson– could have predicted that the uprising in Tunisia would resonate so well with the population in Egypt. At the American University in Cairo, a lecture scheduled for the week the protests began had planned to discuss the Tunisia revolution and why it could not happen here in Egypt.

I arrived back in Cairo for the spring semester on January 26^th, the day after the revolution started. Though optimistic at the thought of a protest movement taking place in Cairo, I held very little personal hope that this would grow into something larger. The security apparatus within the country, a President in power for several decades, and a massive gap between the wealthy and the poor, all contributed to a view expressed by many of my colleagues: Egypt simply would not be able to get itself together for a revolution. Clearly, we couldn’t have been more mistaken.

The night of the 26^th I arrived, exhausted, back to my apartment near Tahrir Square and the High Court. Jetlagged and weary, I immediately fell asleep. I awoke the next morning to the sounds of screaming outside my building and a number of ‘bangs’ I would later recognize as teargas being fired. Outside my window the streets were a throng of people pushing and jostling against a line of police in riot gear. The internet was down by this point and having nowhere to go, I firmly decided that going back to sleep was a perfectly reasonable plan.

I eventually relocated to a friend’s apartment who was staying alone near the Ministry of Interior. That night the worst of the fighting seemed to take place. As the sun set, we could hear protesters pushing the police back in the direction of the Ministry. In the distance from the roof of our building, we could see the National Democratic Party building burning slowly on the far side of the Square. I contacted the Embassy several times as the evening progressed and the warnings and advice grew more dire: ‘Stay in your apartment. Barricade the doors. Turn off all the lights. The police have been issued shoot to kill orders. Do not leave unless your life is in danger’. By this time buildings nearby had been set on fire from a few petrol bombs. We could hear the sound of glass shattering as several stores were looted and cars were set on fire. The air was filled with the booming of shotguns and the smaller pop of rifle and handgun fire. My friend and I succeeded in moving some heavy furniture in front of the door and had blacked out the apartment. We couldn’t, however, stay away from the windows where the streets and buildings were full of fire, smoke, and the sounds of people yelling. As the protesters pushed closer to the Ministry, the gunfire became more intense and sustained. The police began abandoning their posts and banged on our door demanding money and clothes so they could try and escape.  I was told later that approximately thirty people had been killed in the streets outside the building.

What happened that night remains an anomaly of the protest movement in Egypt. The attitude within Tahrir Square, the camaraderie and the organization, all run contrary to the violence of that evening. As many news commentators would go on to point out, the Egyptians had lost their fear of the police and state security. Now many of them were angry and wanted the greatest symbol of the regime torn down into pieces.

After two days near the Ministry we relocated outside of Cairo to another friend’s apartment. By this time, many prisoners had been released from the prisons and neighborhoods had formed armed patrols and checkpoints. Our car was stopped by several teens and a few adults with a collection of bats, kitchen knives, a Japanese sword, and the occasional handgun. During this time I had managed to get instructions to my family on how to call my Egyptian cell phone. It was impossible for me to call out, but they could now call in. The Embassy had begun preparing evacuation flights for American citizens, but fearing the huge crowds at the airport and a long wait, I arranged a commercial flight to Istanbul and then on to Frankfurt to stay with family.

I returned to Cairo five or six  days after I evacuated. I spent many days in Tahrir Square talking with protesters and people who had been arrested and detained by the police or military. I photographed the streets outside the square that had come to look like a warzone. And I stood in awe at the sacrifice and dedication I saw from Egyptian people determined to see the end of a regime that had stood for most of their lives.

Click to view slideshow.

In the square there was a KFC that had been converted to a makeshift pharmacy and clinic. Doctors rushed around tending to the injured and sick. A Pizza Hut had been gutted and turned into a soup kitchen, where volunteers handed out food and water to protesters in need. Tents had been erected in the center of the Square, and the tech savvy had broken into the power lines for the street lamps to provide electricity to satellite dishes, TV sets, and communications. A ring of security had been erected leading into the square that was 3 layers deep. Anyone entering had to have their ID checked 2-3 times and received a pat-down and bag search. They had volunteers manning separate lines for men and women.

I was there the disappointing night when everyone believed the President would announce he was stepping down and instead refused to succumb to pressure. The wave of anger in the crowd was palpable at the close of his speech, as hundreds took off shoes and held them up, sole facing the speakers. And I was there when he finally did step down and the square erupted into celebration.

It can be hard to quantify and explain a series of events that truly has to be experienced to be understood. It’s hard to boil it down into a few lessons or ideas that I walked away with. For one, the importance that an Embassy can play in a time of crisis was never more apparent. The Embassy here became a lifeline for American citizens seeking word from their families and information on the situation as it developed. There are around 90,000 American citizens in Egypt. Whether the Embassy is helping you with your visa issues, working out a business arrangement, funding a democracy initiative, or providing assistance during a revolution, no organization is more committed to helping its citizens abroad then the State Department and our Embassies overseas.

A second would be just how unpredictable living abroad can be, both from a personal and a political standpoint. The revolution in Egypt caught governments, corporations, universities, and people completely flat-footed. In the absence of assistance, it will always come down to taking care of yourself, keeping your head, and being able to, on occasion, laugh a little about it all.  In my correspondence with my former supervisor, I developed a new appreciation both for the role embassy’s plays in crisis events and the level of professionalism and concern voiced by my colleagues as the revolution developed. Everyone that I have had the privilege to work with remains committed to democracy and the promotion of human rights. I am continually impressed with the work they do.

In the end, a story about a revolution isn’t really about politics. It’s about finding yourself somewhere in the middle of a crowd chanting for something you believe in so much you’d be willing to die for it.  It’s about love of something greater and the hope to see it come to pass. It’s about loss. It’s about gain. It’s about governments that refuse to listen and a people who find themselves again.

Gimme Sympathy by Metric

Get hot, get too close to the flame
Wild, open space
Talk like an open book
Sign me up
Got no time to take a picture
I’ll remember someday all the chances we took
We’re so close to something better left unknown
We’re so close to something better left unknown

I can feel it in my bones
Gimme sympathy
After all of this is gone
Who’d you rather be?
The Beatles or the Rolling Stones?
Oh, seriously
You’re gonna make mistakes, you’re young
Come on, baby, play me something
Like, “Here Comes the Sun”

I’m just throwing up a short blog post with some pictures from Dahab. Dahab is a small beach town out on the Sinai. It’s about a 8 hour bus ride from Cairo and is a terrific break from life in the city. It’s small, quiet, and home to some of the best diving available at the ‘Blue Hole’.

According to Wikipedia:

Blue Hole is a diving location on east Sinai, a few kilometres north of Dahab, Egypt on the coast of the Red Sea.

The Blue Hole is a submarine sinkhole (a kind of cave), around 130 m deep. There is a shallow opening around 6 m deep, known as ‘the saddle’, opening out to the sea, and a 26 m long tunnel, known as the arch, the top of which lies at a depth of 56 m. The hole itself and the surrounding area has an abundance of coral and reef fish.

The Blue Hole is notorious for the number of diving fatalities which have occurred there earning it the sobriquet, “World’s Most Dangerous Dive Site” and the nickname “Diver’s Cemetery”.

In the interest of getting some much needed research done today I’ just going to leave this post with some photos

My Number by Tegan and Sara

“They cannot scare me with their empty spaces between stars — or stars where no human race is. I have it in me so much nearer home to scare myself with my own desert places”. - Robert Frost

In an attempt to fulfill my personal pledge to update my blog and to engage in some super procrastination on the thesis writing…

Background:

The Black Desert

This is located about half an hour’s drive away from Bahariyya. It consists of an area of the Sahara Desert which consists of small mountains and hillocks which are sooty black in color. The combination of the black stones covering the hills along with the orange/ochre ground of the desert makes for dramatic viewing. A climb up one of the hills rewards the visitor with an excellent view of a fascinating landscape. The sole method of visiting the Black Desert is via a guided tour in an SUV.

I bring for your consumption our camping trip to the Black and White Desert outside of Bahariya. It was a pretty amazing experience. After living in Cairo for a year and being surrounded by more or less desert it was something else entirely to get out there and experience it.

Though the views and sights were impressive, my favorite moment was probably around dusk when our drivers were setting up camp. I walked a few years away and the absolute silence and stillness of it all was overwhelming. On my back I stared up at the now night sky and free from pollution or light the sheer number of stars became staggering. The edge of the Milky Way was clearly visible. Gradually, the moon rose and gave off so much light that stargazing became difficult. We settled down for dinner cooked over the campfire, smoked K’s fathers pipe, and sipped some tea. Later in the evening 5 or 6 desert foxes began circling the campsite… gradually sneaking closer and closer to get at the food.

When we finally all turned in for the night the foxes came into the campsite and stole one of K’s shoes which had to be tracked down the next morning.

It had been apparent to me for awhile that though our drivers were certainly enthusiastic we had been saddled with ‘the B-team’. This was doubly apparent the next morning when we packed up the truck and it was firmly wedged deep into the sand. Without a rolling start we couldn’t get the engine going at all and in the sand, this proved impossible…

We eventually succeeded in pushing the truck toward some more solid ground that looked like chalk where it could get a bit of a roll going and turn the engine over.

One man… alone… in a post apocalyptic wasteland…

‘Where Do I Begin?‘ by The Chemical Brothers

After interning in D.C. for the summer I had a whirlwind trip back to Seattle to visit friends and then see the family for a bit in Eastern Washington. It truly is my favorite state in the union. Gorgeous forests, snowy mountains, a fun and active city.

While I was visiting in Seattle some friends who had moved out of state after high school were around for a wedding. I hadn’t seen them in almost 10 years! It was amazing to catch up and hear about everyones lives. To see what has changed and what hasn’t, where people are now and what they are planning on doing…

I had never been golfing before but when the boys suggested it I really wanted to give it a try. I found out right before we began that this was one of the hardest courses in the country. I could definitely feel a steep learning curve!

Some of the family!

K and I in NYC

Sister!

On the second day of the reunion the girls were staying in a hotel nearby. I crashed their breakfast buffet so we could have a little goodbye before everyone parted ways again. … I might have looked a little out of place

Peace and Friendship by Nouri

“How soon ‘not now’ becomes ‘never’.” -Martin Luther

So accepting the fact that I have been incredibly lapse in blog updates recently I shall soon begin the long process of bringing things up to date. This will hopefully include plenty of pictures and stories to be shared… after all… a lot has happened in the last few months…

Program trip to the Hague in the Netherlands

Backpacking around India

Tiger Safari and Elephant riding

Apparently, graduate school

A trip to Alexandria

A wedding

Camping in the Black and White Desert

And lets not forget the revolution in Egypt

As I said, plenty of material for a good series of updates

This guy is waiting for the update, too...

Voices from the Ether by ASCIAN

I have been quite remiss in keeping this blog up to date this semester… Hopefully over the next few days I will find a time to remedy that. It is not to say that the last few months have not been quite eventful…. but perhaps that some of them are simply more difficult for the telling of it. While having tea with a friend recently we both talked about blogging, about school, about writing, about working with refugees… a joint consensus we seemed to reach is that there seems to be so much that we feel we can’t write about. Things that never seem right to put to paper or webpage. Things that when we try often end up failing to express what we are trying to show or tell.

This semester I spent 10 days or so in the Netherlands at The Hague with a program trip. We went to many of the international tribunals based there, the ICC, ICTY, ICJ, talked with their representatives and judges…. and most importantly, experienced fall. I also went backpacking through part of India and went on a tiger safari that was breathtaking. There is plenty to tell… but the telling seems to be resisting me… like so much old schoolwork.

But perhaps in the next few days I will try.